Cho Oyu Expedition
Spring / Autumn
Expedition Overview
Austrian first climbs Cho Oyu in 1954.
The Indian and German team also climbed this peak in 1958 and 1964
respectively. Till to
date many expedition teams have successfully
reached on its summit. The year 2004 was regarded as the Golden jubilee
of this Cho Oyu Mountain in the field of
expedition. The golden jubilee
ceremony was organized by Nepal Mountaineering Association with grand
fanfare and jubilantly. There were about 400 climbers from
different
region of the World during this golden jubilee ceremony and most of them
made the summit.
Most of the Cho Oyu expedition teams climb
from
Tibet side due the easy technique-climbing route. Amazing Authentic
Treks and Expedition is also conducting the expedition from Tibet side.
We also
had Golden jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition in Autumn 2004.
Meeting and climbing information:
Expedition begins when you arrive to
Kathmandu where you meet the staff of Amazing Authentic Treks &
Expedition in the airport and transfer you to hotel.
Next day, we have
introduction section with other climbing members & Expedition crews.
Since then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for
Cho
Oyu Expedition.
After 3 day, we drive you towards Nepal-Tibet
border up to the Friendship Bridge through Arnico Highway, where the
Chinese
liaison officer and Chinese transport meet us. The expedition
gears go by truck while we travel by Land cruiser 4wd or with
comfortable Minibus. We take time
to acclimatize with one night at
Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nylam (3750m), which also gives us the
chance to trek up high hills for acclimatization.
Next day we
drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend further two nights acclimatizing.
Then we drive Tingri to Base camp 5000m along rough way with
jerking
& bouncing through grassy plain leading up to Chinese base camp.
We
set up our camp at Chinese Base Camp and stay two nights or more,
depending on how everyone feels. We also make schedules of the yaks by
that time. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable affair with Nepali
cook and
dining tent. Now the two-day walk towards advanced base camp
(ABC) begins.
ABC is in the heart of the Himalaya at 5700m;
surrounded by celestial
peaks. There is also the high pass called Nangpa
La nearby which is an old but still used yak track trading route
between Nepal and Tibet.
From ABC,
we can see the superb scene of
Cho Oyu. This is the main base camp and we plan to stay here for the
longer duration to look the favorable situation for the
expedition.
Every person gets his or her own tent. Our Service will be full board up
to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all services by
themselves.
From ABC it is several hours of tough walking on a
vague path over moraine-covered glacier to the start of the
mountaineering
properly.
Camp 1 is either perched more or less on
the ridge at 6400m and the real mountaineering starts from here. The
ridge is now soft and easy
enough for climbing, then it broadens out and
we climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require
fixing a rope up. We should fix a new rope in
co-operation with other
expeditions on the mountain. Normally one rope is used for ascent and
another for descent. Although the route is crevassed but normally
these
creates no problems.
Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau at
7125m although you will carefully assess where to put the rope.
Depending
on conditions and fitness you may attempt the summit from
here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a
minor ridge at 7550m. Above
Camp 3 are two rocky steps where you fix
another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent.
Finally, you
will start early in the morning from camp 3
for summit. Above the rock
bands the slopes are still reasonably steep and you may take a line to
fix there, depending on conditions. However once on the crest
of this
ridge the terrain is straightforward although it is a long haul to the
summit plateau.
The panorama is breathtakingly magnificent, including Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8501m, Nuptse 7855m, Chamlang 7319m, Ama Dablam 6856m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south. To the west are the Melungtse and Gauri Sankar massifs and to the north is pure Tibet. It is normal to descend to Camp 2 from summit and continue down.
Expedition Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu (1350m.) transfer hotel
Day 02: Kathmandu
Day 03:
Kathmandu
Day 04: Drive to Kodari & transfer Zhangmu 2300m.-Hotel
Day 05: Drive Nylam 2750m. - Hotel
Day 06: Nylam rest for acclimatization
Day 07: Drive Tingri 4340m. - Hotel
Day 08: Rest of day for acclimatized
Day 09: Drive to Chinese Base Camp 5000m. Camping
Day 10: Chinese Base
Camp
Day 11: Prepared load to Yak for Advance BC 5700m.
Day 12: Base Camp - Middle camp with Yaks
Day 13: Middle Camp - Cho Oyu Advance Base Camp
Day 14-39: Climbing Period for Cho Oyu 8201m. [ Route Map ]
Day 40: Advance Base camp - Chinese Base camp
Day 41: Drive Zhangmu
Day 42: Drive Zhangmu
- Kathmandu
Day 43: Kathmandu
Day 44: Kathmandu
Day 45: Final Departure
1. 5 nights hotel in Kathmandu
with bed & breakfast.
2. Expedition Nepalese crews: Professional Expedition Cook, Kitchen
boy, at Base Camp- Advance Base Camp.
Equipment) allowances, daily ways,
expedition insurance for ABC crews, lodging en-route, visa for Tibet
3. Full board hotel in route Tibet side
(bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
4. Chinese Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person
5. Dining tent, Table and Chairs,
toilet tent, Mess tent, Kitchen tent, expedition crew tent
6. Per person (50 KG) Load Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp.
7. Per
person (40 KG) Load Advanced Base Camp to Base Camp.
8. Kathmandu - Zhangmu - BC & back all transfer by Bus Nepal side
& Jeep &
Truck in Tibet side. [ Coaster / Land Cruiser ].
9. Peak permit for Cho Oyu 8201m
10. Tibet Visa & Travel permit
11.
Oxygen, Satellite phone (pay call) and Gamow Bag.
12. Liaison officer & Interpreter
13. Nepalese crew' insurance
1. Air travel to and from Kathmandu .
2. Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu .
3. Laundry, postage,
telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
4. Entry visa into Nepal. This can be obtained at the airport upon arrival
5. Re-entry visa for Nepal .
6. Departure tax at Kathmandu airport for international flight.
7. Personal Expenses
8. Medical and rescue insurance.
9. Climbing equipment & Personal gear.
10. Bar bills & Beverage
11.
Rescue Jeep.
12. Medicine and first aid for expedition.
13. Garbage Deposit USD 500 (Sharing of the total person)
14.
Walkie-Talkie